Often referred to as the ‘Jewel of the Black Forest’ Freiburg is the perfect base for people wanting to explore the popular Schwarzwald. The city is known for its old University and noble Minster, as well as its position among numerous wine growing regions and scenic countryside. Another interesting fact that I stumbled across, one which was particularly promising for us visiting the town as part of our interrailing trip, was that fact it has been proven to be Germany’s warmest and sunniest city! Hooray!
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After an anxious start to our trip (I may have left my passport in Düsseldorf..) I re-joined my parents in Koln station for the second time and then set off to board our train southbound to the beautiful city of Freiburg. Our journey on the trusty Inter City Express (ICE) train took about 3 hours and we were soon whizzing through the luscious green and hilly countryside of Baden Wurttemberg, getting ever closer to our destination.
Once we arrived in the city, we made for our hotel on the other side of town to drop off our bags and refuel with a cup of tea. The journey took us a little longer than expected as the city’s main streets had been cordoned off for a marathon. Thankfully, as we set out later to explore, we were relieved to find that we still had access to the main points of interest.
We began our tour in the impressive Münsterplatz (Cathedral square) at the heart of the old town and the city’s largest square. As the name suggests this is the location of the Münster, a gigantic red sandstone gothic cathedral which is particularly famous for its towering spire that can be seen for miles around.
Unfortunately the spire was partially hidden by scaffolding, undergoing restoration, which meant that we were unable to admire it in its full beauty – pretty impressive all the same though.
Around the same square are a number of other pretty buildings, painted in various colours with a selection of intricate turrets, rooftops and chimneys. One of the most striking has to be the Historisches Kaufhaus, or Historical Merchants Hall, another gothic building on the south side of the square, which was once the financial centre of the region.
Stopping off in the charming Ganters Brauerei, just to the right of the Merchants Hall, we enjoyed refreshments before continuing on our tour.
Our next stop was the Rathausplatz to admire the Altes and Neues Rathaus, (the old and new Town Halls). Nowadays, the Old town hall (the red building hiding behind the tree) is the home of the Tourist Information office.
By this time, the marathon had finished and we were free to wander down the main street of Freiburg, Kaiser Josef Strasse. As we made our way along we were struck by another unique trait that Freiburg presents to the visitor – the unusual system of city gutters, otherwise known as the Bächle. These however were not meant for sewage purposes, instead they were once used as a means of providing water in order to fight fires and feed local livestock. The water in these Bächle still flows today and it has become a local myth that, should one step or fall into one, they are destined to marry a Freiburger or ‘Bobbele‘ (citizen of Freiburg) .
At the end of Kaiser Josef Strasse is one of the old city gates, the Martinstor. Passing through the gate, we found ourselves in a more peaceful area of the city and, just a few metres from the gate stumbled across the endearing narrow lanes of Fischerau and Gerberau. These two lanes are arguably two of Freiburg’s most picturesque thoroughfares and received their curious names due to the fisherman and tanners that used to live in the houses lining the street during medieval times. Nowadays a number of cafes, taverns and small shops can be found in and around this area.
Once we had finished wandering around these quaint streets it was time for some food and we ambled a little further down the road to a recommended Greek restaurant, Irodion. Although from its frontage it doesn’t look like anything special, once you enter into the heart of the restaurant, an atmospheric and authentic Grecian setting awaits. The food is delicious, with very generous portions, and as with most Greek restaurants, particularly great for any carnivores!
Following on from here and still savouring the large but tasty meal, we made our way to the area of Oberlinden, a vibrant quarter of the town which, mostly spared from WW2 destruction, has kept its old world charm and offers many a place to sit and watch the world go by. Just off the main street is my favourite street in Freiburg – the stunning Konviktstrasse.
With the wisteria canopy, colourful houses and abundance of endearing shops it is not hard to understand why this is such a popular street for locals and visitors alike.
Our time in Freiburg was soon at an end and we set off back to the hotel, ready for the early start in the morning.
