48 Hours In Copenhagen

Copenhagen has it all – a rich history, green thinking, wonderful architecture, cool modern design as well ashappy and open minded citizens. As the gateway to Scandinavia it is the epitome of Nordic ‘cool’ and also offers its visitors a safe, walkable and picturesque city break, away from the hustle and bustle of Europe’s other major cities.

Copenhagen was my first Scandinavian stop on my recent European Tour and I was eager to make the most of the limited time I had in the city. With just 48 hours in the Danish capital, I managed to visit all the major sights with some time still to spare, perfect for sampling those delectable Danish pastries!

Without further ado, here is how I spent 48 hours in Copenhagen.

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The Little Mermaid

Despite the many comments concerning her size, I was determined to see Copenhagen’s most iconic statue with my own eyes. As a child I was a lover of all of Hans Christian Anderson’s fairy tales so I could hardly visit Copenhagen without saying hello! Whilst, yes, she is small, and on this occasion surrounded by tourists, I thought she was beautiful and a picture of calm.

Kastellet

We also spent some time exploring the fortress of Kastellet, one of Northern Europe’s best preserved star fortresses, only a short walk away from the Little Mermaid. Back in the day, Kastellet was just one of many bastioned ramparts which encircled the city, but today only the ramparts of Christianshavn remain.

Despite the rather grey and chilly weather, we spent some time strolling around the ramparts which was very pleasant and gave us a good view of the surroundings. Today the fortress compound houses various military facilities and buildings including a church and a somewhat surprisingly a windmill.

Amalienborg

Almost in a direct straight line from Kastellet, in the direction of the city, we arrived in the Royal Square of the Amalienborg Palace, the winter residence of the Danish Royal Family.

Nyhavn

From the Royal Palace we made our way to Nyhavn – Copenhagen’s famous 17^th century waterfront, canal and entertainment district. Stretching from Kongens Nytorv to the harbour front, it is lined with colourful townhouses dating back to the 17^th and early 18^th century which now house bars, cafes and restaurants. Nyhavn also serves as a ‘heritage harbour’ and visitors can see a number of historical wooden ships docked in the canal.

Rosenborg Slot

From Kongens Nytorv (King’s New Square) we opted to hop on the metro and make our way to the renaissance Rosenborg Castle.

The castle was originally built and designed as a country summer house for the Royal family and was used up until 1710 for that purpose. Nowadays the castle is home to a museum, exhibiting the Royal Collections including the Crown Jewels, the Danish Crown Regalia, a Coronation Carpet and the Throne Chair of Denmark.

Rosenborg situated in Kongens Have (The King’s Garden), the country’s oldest royal garden, is also a popular retreat for the people of Copenhagen and rightly so!

Kultorvet

From Rosenborg, we strolled down through some smaller side streets until we reached Kultorvet, a picturesque square and part of the main thoroughfare for people when walking from Nørreport St down to the shopping street Strøget. It was in the square that we found ourselves a place to eat – Pompei Italian – it may not have been particularly traditional Danish food, but it was a nice place to stop all the same and the food was very reasonably priced (which was even better!)

Tivoli

No visit to Copenhagen is complete without a visit to the magical Tivoli amusement park. We had been told that an evening trip is something particularly special and we had been rightly informed!

When dusk arrives, Tivoli transforms into a magical wonderland with thousands of tiny fairy lights and Chinese lanterns illuminating the park and glistening off the flat-calm pools of water, which acted as mirrors, throughout the grounds. From the Moorish (food) palace of Nimb, to the oriental ‘China town’ and a vast Aquarium, to Tivoli’s oldest and most popular ride, the wooden rollercoaster (from 1914!), there is truly something for everybody and you are guaranteed an unforgettable experience.

Christiana

Our first stop the following morning was Freetown Christiania, a complete contrast to the seemingly ordered city just outside its confines.

The story of Christiania goes back to 1971 when a group of squatters moved into an abandoned military site and declared it an independent state. Whilst this was in no way legal, thousands flocked to the site attracted by its lax laws and alternative lifestyle. With no taxes and their own laws, Christiania soon became a hot spot for marijuana sellers, and this is still evident today. Walking around the Freetown, you very quickly sense the alternative way of living – with unusual architecture, art covering almost every wall and there is a definite Rastafarian influence.

Don’t be put off though – the area is safe for tourists and incredibly interesting! But no photographs allowed past the entrance!

Copenhagen Street Food/ Paper Island

Lunchtime was soon upon us and so we strolled along the waterfront to the so-called ‘Paper Island’. This artificial island, just across the water from The Royal Danish Playhouse and Nyhavn, was first used by the army as a storage location for their weaponry. After 1958 it became a place to keep huge rolls of paper imported from neighbouring Sweden, intended for the Danish newspaper production (hence the name). Nowadays however Paper Island is the location of Copenhagen’s first and only genuine street food market offering over 35 food stalls, food trucks and containers.

Vor Frelsers Kirke

Heading back into town we made our way to the very unique baroque Vor Frelsers Kirke (Our Saviours Church). Unfortunately we were somewhat restricted by time (there was a slightly issue of heights too, but ssh!) so didn’t climb the bell tower but I am told that the views from the top are absolutely breath-taking!

Christiansborg Slot

Next was the Old Town and our first stop was Christiansborg Slot, which houses the Danish Parliament. Several parts of the palace are also used by the monarchy, including the Royal Reception Rooms, the Palace Chapel and the Royal Stables.

Strøget

Leaving Slotsholmen we crossed over Højbro bridge, stopping to spot the underwater bronze statue of ‘Agnete and the Merman’ before continuing on to Amagertorv which marks the start of the pedestrian shopping street Strøget – the longest pedestrian street in Europe (1.8 km).

Although the shopping opportunities were tempting, hosting a huge mix of top designer names as well as high street stores, I managed to resist. Instead, we wandered through the side streets and alleys, stumbling across beautiful buildings and colourful squares, like Gråbrødretorv, on our way.

Rundetårn

To round off a busy 48 hours and our whistle stop tour of the old town, we arrived at the base of the impressive Rundetårn. The 17^th century tower was originally built as an astronomical observatory and it is most noted for its equestrian staircase, a spiralling corridor leading to the top.

The surprisingly spacious interior is also the host to a rather unique festivity every Spring – a unicycle race up the Spiral Walk. Now that is something I would like to see!

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Just like Hans Christian Anderson sings in the film ‘Wonderful, wonderful Copenhagen’ I was equally impressed and must say, I concur! I thoroughly enjoyed my short stay in the city with its waterfront, palaces and quaint and cosy atmosphere (not forgetting the little mermaid), it offered something for everyone!

I would be interested in hearing your stories – perhaps you’ve visited Copenhagen and have some tips, or maybe it’s on your wish list? Whatever the case, do let me know in the comments below!

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