Budapest is a city which demands your attention, and rightly so. It is a city of grandeur, with elements of Viennese elegance and coffee culture, a city of beauty and ‘flair’, along with a scenic setting and attractive architecture which has in the past awarded the Hungarian capital with the nickname ‘Paris of the East’. Its ease on the eyes, along with its unique, youthful atmosphere, a world-class classical music scene, combined with a plethora of natural thermal baths and great nightlife, has resulted in Budapest becoming one of Europe’s most delightful and enjoyable cities.
A long weekend is the perfect duration for a trip to the city and last August I spent four days exploring the Hungarian cosmopol. Following my trip, here is my quick guide to Budapest, which will hopefully provide you with everything you need to know to make the most of your stay.
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Getting There
Arriving in Budapest from the UK is very straightforward with multiple flights a day departing from the London terminals. Most travelers will arrive via the Budapest Franz Liszt International Airport (commonly referred to as Ferihegy) which is just 16km southeast of the centre of Budapest. The airport is reachable by public transport or a taxi journey takes approximately 30 minutes. More information can be found here on the airport’s website. Behind security at the airport, there are a number of typical airport shops and services including duty-free stores, luxury brands, as well as a variety of food outlets.
It is also possible to arrive into Budapest via train as the city is connected with almost all countries in central and eastern Europe. Three major stations serve the city; Keleti pályaudvar (East), Déli pályaudvar (South) and Nyugati pályaudvar (West). All are well connected to the metro system. Most international trains arrive at Keleti, but I’d advise you to check your particular itinerary.
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Checking In: Hilton West End
Back in August, my travel buddy and I decided to treat ourselves to a stay at the Hilton West End. Located on the Pest side of the river Danube, the modern hotel is a peaceful retreat from the city’s cosmopolitan centre. Its location was also particularly practical as a number of Budapest’s most iconic landmarks were just a short walk away. These included Andrássy Avenue, the Hungarian equivalent of the Champs-Élysées, along with the spectacular Parliament Building, the vast and impressive Heroes’ Square and of course, the St. Stephen’s Basilica.
Our stay in the Hilton was extremely pleasant and we definitely made the right decision basing ourselves in this part of town. Our room was very comfortable, clean and spacious, and we enjoyed a generous buffet breakfast included in the price.
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Main Neighbourhoods
Modern Budapest is the result of a historic amalgamation of two cities – Buda and Pest – separated by the wide tract of the Danube. Buda is the serene, hilly home of the Castle and the Fisherman’s Bastion, whereas Pest is the commercial part of the city where business, culture and nightlife coexist.
Buda
Buda is located to the western side of the Danube River, and is best known as the home of ‘Castle Hill’. Known as Várhegy in Hungarian, this area was first settled in the thirteenth century, following a Mongol attack which led the citizen’s of Buda to find a more easily defended neighbourhood. The royal Hungarian court also decided to move, to the southern end of the hill. Hilly Buda is calm, historic and serene with plenty of elegant architecture such as the Castle and Fisherman’s Bastion.
Pest
To the east of the Danube is the area of Pest. Pest is split into five distinctive districts – Belváros, Lipótváros, Újlipótváros, Terézváros and Erzsébetváros.
Together Belváros (Inner City) and Lipótváros (Leopold Town) form the 5th district, the heart of Pest and the political, financial, commercial and touristic centre of Hungary. This district is home to a number of major sights, including the Parliament, a number of ministries and banking houses, as well as beautiful squares and cafés.
Újlipótváros (New Leopold Town) is the inner part of the 8th district, just outside of the Great Boulevard north of Leopold Town with the marvellous Margaret Bridge at its corner. Built between 1910 and 1930, it is considered one of the finest residential areas in Budapest with a relaxed, inviting atmosphere and a number of restaurants, cafés and small shops.
Terézváros (Theresa Town) makes up the city’s 6th district and is home to the western railway station, Nyugati pu, an architectural sight in its own right. The quarter was named after a visit of Habsburg Empress and Queen Maria Theresa in 1777. Nowadays, Terézváros along with its neighbouring quarter Erzsébetváros is well known and frequented for its buzzing nightlife.
Named after Franz-Josef I’s wife Elizabeth (also known as Sisi) Erzsébetváros (Elisabeth Town) forms the 7th district of Budapest. The inner half of the district was the historic Jewish quarter of Pest and contains the famous Dohány Street Synagogue, the largest functioning synagogue in Europe.
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What to See
Budapest has more than its fair share of sights and attractions to keep its visitors busy. From strolling along the city’s pretty streets admiring the wonderful architecture, to visiting museums, historical buildings or relaxing along the Danube or in the city’s green spaces, you won’t get bored at all.
Buda Castle
Built on the southern tip of Castle Hill, Buda Castle is enclosed on the north by what is known as the Castle District (Várnegyed), famous for its Medieval, Baroque, and 19th-century houses, churches, and public buildings. The castle is a part of the Budapest World Heritage Site, which was declared a Heritage Site in 1987 and is home to the Hungarian National Gallery, the Budapest History Museum and the National Library. Visitors to the castle will also see the Lion Courtyard; the Matthias Well, a bronze statue of King Matthias; and the statue of the Turul Bird, the mythological bird of the Magyars.
Hungarian Parliament Building
The Parliament building, a magnificent example of Neo-Gothic architecture (although displaying Renaissance and Baroque characters too), is just over 100 years old. The Budapest Parliament building is the third largest Parliament building in the world. It has 691 rooms, 20 kilometers (12.5 miles) of stairs and at 96 meters (315 feet) it is the same height as the St. Stephen’s Basilica. Guided tours of the Parliament are available when the National Assembly is not in session. The tour takes about 45 minutes, and is well worth the price, as it covers the main entrance stairs and hall, one of the lobbies, the old House of Lords and the Hungarian Crown Jewels.
Heroes Square
Laid out in 1896 to mark the thousandth anniversary of Hungary, Heroes’ Square (Hősök tere) is the largest and most impressive square of the city. Located at the end of Andrássy Avenue and next to City Park, Heroes’ Square is one of the most visited sights in Budapest. If you have the time, it’s worthwhile to visit Heroes’ Square at least twice: both during the day and at night. Combine it with a stroll along Andrassy Avenue or a visit to City Park.
Matthias Church
At the heart of Buda’s Castle District, just steps from the striking Fisherman’s Bastion, is the beautiful Roman Catholic church of Matthias. While the outside of Matthias Church offers the historical beauty of traditional Gothic churches with its delicate turrets, the brightly coloured roof-tiles already give away that this church is not following the usual recipe. Inside the church you are welcomed by warm lights, orange, brown, golden hewed frescos reaching from floor to ceiling, beautiful stain glass windows, far reaching arches, century old wooden pews and splendid medieval remnants.
St Stephen’s Basilica
Named in honour of Hungary’s first King, Stephen, the Basilica is the most important church building in Hungary and one of the most significant tourist attractions in the city. The building stands at 96 metres, equal to the height of the Hungarian Parliament Building so as to symbolize that worldly and spiritual thinking have equal importance.
Andrassy Avenue
Lined with spectacular neo-renaissance mansions and townhouses, Andrassy Avenue is one of Budapest’s main shopping streets, with fine cafes, restaurants, theatres, Embassies and luxury boutiques. Along the avenue you will find the State Opera House, the former Ballet School, the Zoltán Kodály Memorial Museum and Archives, the Hungarian University of Fine Arts and the Ferenc Hopp Museum of East Asian Arts.
Liberty Statue/ Citadella
Upon the top of Gellért Hill, visitors to the city will find the splendid Citadella fortification, which once held strategic important in Budapest’s military history. The fortress was built in 1851 after the Hungarian Revolution of 1848. Just steps from the Citadella fortress is the Liberty Statue commemorates those who sacrificed their lives for the independence, freedom, and prosperity of Hungary. From the top of the Gellért Hill, a panoramic view is available of the city, the Danube and its eight bridges below. It really is worth the climb!
Fisherman’s Bastion
The neo-Gothic and neo-Romanesque style terrace is possibly my favourite location in the whole of the city. Situated on the Buda bank of the Danube, on Castle Hill, the shining white towers and terrace provide the perfect viewing platform out over Pest to the east, Margaret Island and the Gellért Hill. The Bastion is said to have been named after the fishermen’s guild who protected the Buda side castle wall.
Széchenyi Thermal Bath
A favourite with the tourists is the picturesque Széchenyi Thermal Bath, the largest medicinal bath in Europe. Built in 1913, the baths are one of the most visited and much praised attractions in Budapest. In addition to the soothing medicinal hot spring waters in the 18 pools, there are 10 saunas / steam cabins, several massage therapies, facial treatments, and more. Who doesn’t like a bit of a pamper?
Great Market Hall
You know me and my markets, so there was no way that the beautiful central market hall wasn’t going to make it onto my list of things to see in the city. Located at the end of the famous pedestrian shopping street Váci utca, the market offers a huge variety of stalls over three floors. On the ground floor you can find meats, pastries, candies, spices, and spirits such as paprika, Tokaji, Túró Rudi, and caviar, whilst the second floor has mainly eateries and souvenirs. If you venture into the basement you will find the butcher shops, a fish market, and a variety of flavoured pickles. The market is closed on Sunday, opens at 6am on other days, and closes at 5pm Monday, 6pm Tue-Fri and 3pm Saturday.
Vajdahunyad Castle
Located within the grounds of the city park, the Vajdahunyad castle is the perfect place to escape the chaos of the inner city and enjoy some moments peace and quiet in green surroundings. Built in 1896 to celebrated the 1,000 years of Hungary since the Hungarian Conquest of the Carpathian Basin in 895, the castle was designed to feature copies of several landmark buildings from different parts the Kingdom of Hungary. The castle was originally made from cardboard and wood, but it became so popular that it was rebuilt from stone and brick between 1904 and 1908. Today, it houses the Museum of Hungarian Agriculture, the biggest agricultural museum in Europe.
Széchenyi Chain Bridge
The Chain Bridge was the first permanent stone-bridge connecting Pest and Buda, and only the second permanent crossing on the whole length of the Danube River. Although named after István Széchenyi, a major supporter of its construction, it was actually designed by an English engineer, William Tierney Clark, who has designed a similar, but smaller chain bridge in the quiet town of Marlow along the River Thames in England.
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What and Where to Eat
Hungarian food deserves to be (and often is) mentioned among the country’s main sites. Local specialities often revolve around meat (pork, beef, veal, or poultry) and often involve liberal use of paprika, although not necessarily the hot kind.
Gulyás(leves) – this dish is often translated as ‘goulash soup’ and is made with meat (usually beef) along with with potatoes and paprika, among other ingredients.
Pörkölt – the dish that we would identify as ‘goulash’, is essentially a meaty stew with sautéed onions and paprika.
Töltött káposzta – cooked stuffed cabbage leafs are filled with meat in a paprika sauce and served with sour cream
Gundel palacsinta – more or less a Hungarian crepe containing a filling prepared with rum, raisin, walnuts, and lemon zest, served with a chocolate sauce. Sounds a-mazing!
Kürtőskalács – also known as chimney cake, this is a delicious sweet dough pastry cooked on a chimney shaped spit and coated in butter and sugar to form a crispy crust. After the cakes are cooked they can be rolled in a variety of toppings such as cinnamon sugar or chocolate.
Visitors to Budapest also cannot miss out on a visit to one of the fancy coffeehouses – a traditional Budapest institution, somewhat resembling Viennese lifestyle. During my visit to Budapest, we stopped by the New York Cafe and enjoyed a cup of coffee and a slice of cake.
Budapest offers plenty of places to drink, from cool and ultra-hip to rowdy and down-market. If you are in the mood for a particularly Hungarian experience, visit a so-called borozó (wine pub). These offer cheap yet tasty Hungarian wine on tap at outright hilariously low prices if you manage to find one outside the tourist circuit. Alternatively head for one of the ‘kerts’ – a ‘rubble’ or ‘ruin’ bar. These are Derelict buildings which have been artistically transformed by decorating them with old junk such as bathtubs, bicycles and household items, they are wonderfully atmospheric and interesting places to hang out. Probably the most well-known (and best) of these is Szimpla – massive and with hundreds of nooks and crannies to explore, it has a great summer garden and cinema screen for regular viewings, and displays local artists’ work.
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Getting Around
Budapest’s extensive public transit system is generally convenient and easy to use. Tourists can navigate most central areas by metro, but a few major destinations, particularly on the Buda side, are served by busses or trams. Most types of tickets and passes can be purchased from BKK vending machines around the city and there are also customer service points in most of the main transport hubs. Personally I would recommend investing in a travel card for the duration of your stay, especially if you plan to use the public transport system frequently. A 24 hour travel card comes in at HUF1,650 (approximately £4.55/ EUR 5.32).
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I really hope you enjoyed reading this quick guide to Budapest and found it helpful. If you have any tips or suggestions to add, please let me know in the comments below. Love V x
