It was back in March that the idea came into my head for a weekend away to explore the beautiful countryside of Gloucestershire, Herefordshire and Worcestershire and to visit and some of the towns and villages along the way.
My family roots are deeply embedded in this part of the world and it is always a delight to reach the edge of the Cotswold escarpment, look down over the expanse of the Severn Valley and pick out the tower of Gloucester cathedral in the distance. Cheltenham often declares itself to be the ‘Gateway to the Cotswolds’ but who can doubt the historical claim of Gloucester to be crowned as the undisputed Gateway not only to the Cotswolds but also to those lands west of the Severn. You may detect a degree of bias here but I often feel that Gloucester does not always get the recognition it deserves as a true centre for the tourist. The city offers a magnificent cathedral, steeped in history, a leaning tower (St Nicholas Church in Westgate Street), historic docks, which continue to undergo preservation and regeneration, the ruins of several medieval churches and other monastic establishments and not forgetting the city’s Roman history, the Three Choirs Festival, various museums and for children, The Beatrix Potter House of the Tailor of Gloucester, tucked away in College Court.
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Our journey down to Gloucester, by car, followed very roughly the route of the Thames, passing through such pretty towns and villages, such as Pangbourne, Streatley, Wantage, Faringdon, Lechlade, Fairford and the first stop of the journey Cirencester.
Cirencester
Often referred to as the Capital of the Cotswolds, Cirencester has a rich historical past and was in the 4th century second only to London as Britain’s largest town. The centre of the town is its market square, which is dominated at its western end by the tower of the Parish Church of John the Baptist. This is the largest parish church in Gloucestershire and its 162ft high tower is said to be the tallest in the county. After a leisurely stroll around the square it was time for lunch. My motto is ‘always ask a local if you want good-value food in an authentic setting’ and that’s just what I did. As a result we spent a very pleasant hour or so in the Black Horse (Castle Street) where we enjoyed some classic pub food whilst chatting to one or two of the locals.
Back outside, we crossed across the road and through the archway headed with the inscription The Old Post Office and into the area around Swan Yard and Black Jack Street. This off-the-beaten-track development is well worth a visit with plenty of small but interesting outlets to explore. Once back out on the street (Gosditch Street to be exact) we were met with an alternative view of the Parish Church along with the interesting facades and rooftops of The Crown Inn and the adjoining buildings.
Our time in this little gem of a town was fast coming to a close but we could not leave without spending a while marvelling at the Church itself, both inside and out! Funded by the wool trade in the 13th century, the inside conveys an almost cathedral-like impression, but strangely the shape is rather unique being almost rectangular, rather than the usual cross-shaped nave and transept design. The nave with its perpendicular pillars gives a real sense of height and the many windows provide a well-lit, airy feel. Apart from the architectural marvels, the church’s greatest treasure is the Boleyn Cup, made for Anne Boleyn, in silver gilt, in the year before her execution, i.e. in 1535. So much to take in, the architecture, the fan-vaulting in St Catherine’s Chapel, the religious artefacts and not forgetting the faded mural of the Last Judgment, showing lost souls being cast into hell by the devil (over the small arch from St Catherine’s Chapel). On a lighter note see if you can spot ‘Tom and Jerry’ watching the goings-on in the Lady Chapel (from on high!). Oh, I almost forgot, if you have the time and the Tower is open, do scale the heights for some marvellous views across the town and for a bird’s eye view of Cirencester Park, the seat of the Bathurst family.
Gloucester
Next stop was Gloucester, so we were soon back on the road, winding our way along the Frome Valley to Stroud, and onwards via Painswick down into the city itself. We parked up in the Southgate Moorings Car Park, next to Victoria Dock and conveniently placed to visit the Docks themselves, the City and Gloucester Quays Designer Outlet. Something for everyone!!
Our exploration of Gloucester began by making our way to the cathedral, passing first the Soldiers of Gloucestershire museum, tucked away in the corner of quays close to Victoria Dock, then the ruins of Blackfriars Priory, just off Ladybellgate Street. Blackfriars is one of the most complete surviving friaries of Dominican ‘black friars’ in England and was later converted into a Tudor house – a fascinating place! From here it was just a short walk to the end of the street and via Bull Lane (almost directly opposite) into Westgate Street. This thoroughfare once led to the city gates, the Severn and beyond towards the Forest of Dean and the Welsh Borders. Today it has been pedestrianised and is one of the four main shopping streets of the city.
Almost opposite is the entrance to College Court (formerly known as Craft’s Lane or Ironmongers’ Row), a pretty little lane that leads towards the precincts of the cathedral. As you approach the arch at the end of the lane (in medieval times this led to the small gate later called St. Michael’s gate) you will find on the left The House of the Tailor of Gloucester, and the Beatrix Potter museum. Step inside and you will be transported back in time to wonderful childhood memories relating to those stories of Peter Rabbit, Mrs Tiggy-Winkle, the Flopsy Bunnies and of course the enchanting Christmas tale (based on a true story) concerning the Tailor of Gloucester.
Entering the cathedral precincts from this corner, we stepped into a space dominated by this great monument to the skills, artistry and foresight of the masons and artisans of long ago. Its story spans some 1300 years and offers the visitor of today sights which include some of the finest English architectural styles, beautiful stained glass windows and its many monuments, sculptures and tombs.
There is so much to absorb, explore and marvel at, that every visit has the potential of revealing yet another historical fact, another hidden corner to explore and another moment to ponder the greater questions in life. Make sure you visit the Crypt, the Cloisters, the Tower (for yet more wonderful views across the city and beyond) and the not so well-advertised Tribune and Whispering Galleries.
Exiting the cathedral, and turning to the right, you reach College Green where you are once again afforded spectacular views of the cathedral as well as an assortment of listed buildings, ranging in size, age and style. In the northern corner is St Mary’s Gate, which leads the tourist through into St Mary’s Square home to St Mary de Lode church and Bishop Hooper’s monument. If you don’t know, Hooper was an English churchman, Bishop of Gloucester and Worcester who was burnt at the stake for heresy in the reign of Mary Tudor (1555) – later described as a martyr.
From the square we turned left and walked via Three Cocks Lane back onto Westgate Street. Just across the road we spotted the black and white structure that is The Folk Museum, full of fascinating artefacts relating to Gloucester’s history, industry and agricultural past. Well worth at least an hour of one’s time!
Whilst walking up Westgate Street in the direction of Gloucester Cross, it is worth peering down some of the narrow lanes (on both sides) that branch off this main thoroughfare. Although only accessible on Heritage Open Days, Maverdine Passage, (26 Westgate Street) is a hidden gem! (Don’t miss out! Tours however, need to be pre-booked). So much of Gloucester has changed, says my Dad, since the re-development that started in the 1960s, and so much architectural heritage has been lost. That’s progress I suppose!!
Having reached the Cross, the intersection of the four main streets and the focus of a story relating to my great-grandfather (Copper on the Cross), we turned right into Southgate Street where we found Baker’s, the jewellers, and above the shop frontage the four colourful figures representing England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales together with Old Father Time who together mark time by striking their respective bells.
A little further along is the house of Robert Raikes (an 18th century English philanthropist and Anglican layman, who is well-known for his promotion of Sunday schools); a fine example of a Tudor House, which today is a pub with a lovely garden. Ignoring the pull from such an inviting pause, we continued on towards the Market where we were greeted by the Emperor Nerva, (or at least a bronze statue of him), acknowledged to be the founder of the city in around AD97.
Everywhere one looks in Gloucester, there is a sense of history, there are so many places to discover, covering all tastes and bygone eras, so many stories to be told of the people and characters who have over time moulded or been moulded by this wonderful city, and so many hidden gems waiting to be discovered, often today behind closed doors. Gloucester is the Gateway to the Cotswolds and should be celebrated as such!
Our time in the city was coming to an end so after a leisurely stroll back to the Docks and a re-examination of the area, including a walk along the quays, past the Victorian warehouses to the Designer Outlet shops. After browsing around this retail hub it was back to the car and out of the city as far as the village of Upton-St-Leonards and our hotel for the night.
Newent
The sun was making an appearance as we sat in the breakfast room, sipping our coffees and awaiting the delights of a Full-English. Our plan for the day had been roughly agreed the night before, so once the eggs, bacon and mushrooms had been demolished and several cups of coffee had been drunk, it was time to get back in the car, skirt the city and head west, across the Severn to the market town of Newent, some 10 miles from Gloucester, on the northern edge of the Forest of Dean.
Not only is Newent an attractive, unspoilt market town with a 13th century church, St May’s, but its half-timbered Market House and other houses of historical nature makes a stop worthwhile. The town is also home to the Shambles, a collection of Victorian buildings, from houses to shops and workshops, recreating the atmosphere of a 19th century street. The site houses one of the largest collections of everyday Victoriana in the country!
In close proximity to the town you can also find the National Birds of Prey Centre and the world famous Three Choirs vineyard, our next stop.
First planted back in 1973, The Three Choirs Vineyard is, at 80 acres, one of the larger vineyards in the country. At the centre of the Golden Triangle, so called because of the preponderance of daffodils in the surrounding area, and with a unique microclimate, sheltered by the Malvern Hills and the Brecon Beacons. Best known for its still sparkling white wines the vineyard does now offer both reds and rosés.
After sampling, and then purchasing several bottles of the wine we took a coffee in the restaurant, which overlooks the sloping countryside and vines, and planned the next stage of our travels.
Tewkesbury
Our route was to take across country to Tewkesbury, via Hartpury and Corse Lawn, through some beautiful countryside, idyllic villages, past picture-postcard cottages and along roads bordered with primroses and other wild flowers. To our left, as we drove, the rolling crest of the Malvern Hills kept us company and beckoned us to draw ever closer to explore (something we had already planned for the following day).
The drive was one of about 20 miles and before we knew it we were entering Tewkesbury from the north, crossing the Avon, via King John’s Island and then turning right into the High Street. Situated right on the corner is the oldest pub in Gloucestershire, Ye Olde Black Bear, built in 1308, steeped in history and said to be frequented by several ghosts.
Parking was well signposted (first turning on the left leads to Station Road) and in no time at all we were on our feet, walking through the pedestrian precinct and back onto the main street, High Street. Directly in front was The Tudor House Hotel, a lovely black and white timbered building dating back to the 16th century – the first of many such medieval houses and hostelries that remain standing today. Passing the Town Hall (one of the few stone-built buildings in the town) we reached more wonderful examples of black and white architecture and the aptly named ‘Ancient Grudge’. The name refers to the animosity between the Houses of York and Lancaster which led to the Wars of the Roses and the battle of Tewkesbury in 1471. There are so many noteworthy buildings scattered throughout the town that it is little wonder that in 1964 The Council of British Archaeology listed it amongst 57 towns “so splendid and so precious that the ultimate responsibility for them should be of national concern”.
Apart from the obvious delights of this well-preserved market town, its medieval character and its history, spend a little time investigating the numerous narrow alleyways which branch off from Tewkesbury’s main thoroughfare. These little gems encapsulate much of the charm of town and often give hints of the town’s social history, some carry the name of a pub, some make reference to local families and some such as Fish Valley and Nailers Square, reflect the occupation of past residents.
The historical trail continues as you turn into Church Street in the direction of the Abbey, with the likes of the Berkeley Arms and a little further on The Royal Hop Pole, a coaching inn dating back to the 18th century, which was mentioned in Dickens’ ‘The Pickwick Papers’. Further in the distance is the John Moore Countryside Museum and The Merchant’s House, the former celebrating the work the writer and naturalist John Moore.
On the approach to the Museum, the road begins to open out and offers the first glimpse of the Abbey Tower which dominates this part of the town. Consecrated in 1121 The Abbey is actually one of the largest parish churches in the country (almost of cathedral proportions) is rich in architectural and artistic heritage. The Norman Tower is considered by many to be the finest example of its type in the world. As one enters the grounds of The Abbey the perspective changes and its size and scale becomes more apparent (the church is larger than 14 British cathedrals!). The interior does not disappoint! Stout Norman pillars support rounded arches with decorated vaulting and gilded bosses add the finishing touches. The magnificent architecture, stained-glass windows, fabric and furnishings leave a lasting impression on the visitor. (Only Westminster Abbey contains more medieval monuments.)
Exiting The Abbey through the North Porch it is just a short walk along the yew-lined path and through the main gate and back on to Church Street. Crossing over into Mill Street, past The Bell, a 2 minute stroll brings you to Tewkesbury Mill and the river. A leisurely promenade along the river provides the visitor with some panoramic view of the distant Malvern Hills, some quaint cottages, complete with picturesque gardens and of course the comings and goings of waterfowl, small boats and occasional narrowboats.
Tewkesbury is a real jewel and deserves a place on the Gloucestershire tourist trail. Packed with history, surrounded by beautiful country, at the confluence of two of England’s major waterways, the Severn and the Avon and celebrated for its majestic Abbey this small market town, with its medieval layout really does impress.
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Have you ever visited Gloucester, or any of the smaller towns mentioned? It really is amazing how much there is on offer and I would recommend each place as a god stop on a Cotswolds tour! Do let me know what you think in the comments below! Love Vx
1 comment
Beautiful places! Reminds me of my trip to Canada