Having completed the first leg of our trip around the 3 counties it was time to see what day 2 would bring as we crossed the border into county number two – we were ready to see and explore the hills of Herefordshire!
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Upton upon Severn
Mist was still clearing from the fields and hedgerows as we left Gloucester behind and made our way towards the Malvern Hills and Herefordshire. Our journey took us once again through Tewkesbury and on to the small riverside town of Upton upon Severn. Today, it is difficult to imagine Upton as a bustling port serving the rich agricultural lands which surround it, but as you walk the streets it is possible to glimpse delightful buildings, (make sure you look up and check out the upper levels as well as the more obvious lower ones!).
The central focus of the town has to be the area around the bridge and the church tower, known locally as the ‘Pepperpot’. This distinctive medieval tower, with its unusual cupola instead of a spire is the oldest surviving building in the town and now houses the Heritage Centre. Here you can find information about the growth and development of the town as well as its involvement during the Civil War in 1651.
Not far away, along High Street, is the White Lion, mentioned by Henry Fielding in his book ‘The History of Tom Jones’ and which some say could have been partially instrumental in ending the Civil War – the Royalist troops over imbibed on ‘the strong waters’ at the inn. The town has always boasted a good selection of taverns and coaching inns, (17 in 1822 for a population of just over 2000) and 8 now remain, including the The Star Inn and The Kings Head.
Well-placed for touring the area, Upton today is a popular stopping-off destination for pleasure craft of all shapes and sizes (the town has its own marina) and also hosts a variety of events each year, such as the Jazz, Folk, Blues and Water Festivals which attracts crowds in their thousands.
Great Malvern
Leaving Upton behind it was a pleasant 8 mile drive to Great Malvern, our next stop. The approach along the B4211 provided us with good views of what to expect, as the range of the Malverns – an area of outstanding natural beauty – got ever closer.
Parking just behind the Priory (or Abbey if you prefer!) and next door to the Winter Gardens, our initial direction was back into Church Street and up the slope to the Priory Church. Another beautiful example of Norman church architecture the Priory dates back to the 11th century and is well worth a visit. A quick trip inside the Tourist Information Office (found at the top of Church Street, opposite the Post Office) to pick up relevant brochures etc. and then it was a pleasant stroll along Bellevue Terrace to the Rose Bank Gardens.
On the way, we stopped on the small terrace (Belle Vue Island) above the Post Office where we encountered our first statue relating to Elgar, perhaps the most celebrated on Malvern’s sons. Elgar was the most significant English composer of his time, inspired, to a large degree, by the countryside and culture in and around Malvern. Also on Belle Vue Island are the Malvina and Enigma fountains, the first relating to the town’s history as a spa and the second another celebrating the works of Elgar.
Rose Bank Gardens is the perfect spot, to take in the panoramic views of the Worcestershire countryside, The Priory below and the renowned Abbey Hotel. It is also a place of peace and quiet, a place to relax and admire the Diamond Jubilee Sculpture of Two Buzzards (by Walenty Pytel). This powerful piece reflects the majesty and beauty of the natural surroundings and certainly catches the eye as you enter the Gardens. Described as a gateway to the hills, the Gardens offer access not only to walkers intent on climbing to the summit of the Worcestershire Beacon high above but also to St Anne’s Well via the ’99-steps’ footpath. In the corner of the Gardens is a plaque, relating to an urban myth, which connects C.S. Lewis’ classic ‘Narnia’ stories, in particular ‘The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe’ to Malvern (where he spent a brief spell as a pupil in Malvern College). The link refers to the gas lamps in the town. Such lighting remains today and for those who are interested there exists a Gas Lamp Trail.
After a relaxing stop in the gardens, it was back down into the town through the Abbey Gateway (also the Malvern Museum) past the Abbey Hotel and the turning left into Grange Road, which offers another good position from which to view the Priory and the Hills beyond. After a coffee in the Winter Gardens we strolled through Priory Park and back to the car.
The next stage of our journey saw us climbing higher and higher in the direction of the Wyche Cutting, a pass through the Hills and the gateway to Herefordshire. The views to the east were spectacular, taking in vast swathes of countryside with the Severn in the distance. Once through the Cutting we wound our way down to the village of Colwall and from there on to Ledbury and a spot of lunch. Along the way we saw signposts for Eastnor Castle, which might perhaps be a stop-off point on a future journey?
Ledbury
The entrance into Ledbury, from the Worcester Road, is lined with period buildings and the now all-to -familiar black and white timbered framed houses.
Like so many villages in the likes of Gloucestershire, Herefordshire and Worcestershire, Ledbury has a timeless, unhurried quality about it. Dating back to Saxon times and mentioned in the Domesday Book (as Liedeberge – Leadon Hill). There are many examples of Norman, Tudor, Georgian and Victorian architecture to admire, but The Market House, Ledbury Park or Southend, Ledbury Library and St Katharine’s Hospital or Alms-houses stand out. As with Malvern, Ledbury has attracted poets and writers in the past the most notable being the poetess Elizabeth Barrett Browning and the Poet John Masefield.
Having explored The Homend, venturing as far as The Horseshoe Inn we retraced our steps as far as The Market House, before settling on The Prince of Wales in Church Lane as our first choice for Sunday lunch. Situated in cobbled, quaint lane leading up to the church this good old-fashioned English pub, full of character, friendly staff and home-cooked traditional food and excellent real ales encapsulated just what we wanted.
Watered and fed and after a quick look at the church we made our way back to the car-park and prepared ourselves for the final stage for the day – destination Hereford.
Hereford
The 20 mile drive took us just over half an hour and it was not long before we were checking into our hotel for the night, The Three Counties, and enjoying a very welcome cup of tea.
Once refreshed it was just a short drive back into the centre with the intention to have a good look around. We parked up near Bishops Meadow and walked across bridge which offered us a good view of both the river (Wye) and the cathedral. A walk along Bridge Street and King Street brought us to the precincts of the cathedral, where once again we were awe-struck by the sight of yet another marvellous edifice, reflecting the skill, vision and fortitude of the masons, carpenters and other artisans who together built these remarkable places of worship which have then stood and witnessed the various ages of man.
Unable to enter the cathedral, it being late afternoon and a service was underway, we spent some time wandering around the grounds where we encountered another statue of Elgar, this time life-size, in bronze and with bicycle (a beloved Sunbeam). Also close by there were the buildings of Hereford Cathedral School (which dates back to the 14th century, the cloisters, both Bishop’s and Vicars’, and the remains of the Chapter House. Recent work has re-established the beauty and dignity of Cathedral Close and now presents a wonderful public space and setting for the cathedral itself.
Our exit was via Church Street, a reasonably narrow, paved thoroughfare with an eclectic mix of shops brought into the city centre and one of the main shopping streets, East Street. (Historically, Church Street was split into two separate parts, Broad Cabbage Lane and Narrow Cabbage Lane). Further investigation found us in High Town, a pedestrianised shopping area, facing a life-size bronze statue of a Hereford bull! Commissioned in 2012, this 1.6m high statue stands in front of the Old House Museum, and adds to charm and atmosphere of this friendly market town, proud of its agricultural heritage.
From the Old House Museum at the centre of the town, we meandered through the streets, eyeing sights such as St Peter’s Church, The Green Dragon hotel (a historic coaching inn dating back to the 16th century) and just opposite St Francis Xavier’s Church, its entrance flanked by two fluted Doric columns. A little further on and our walk around the city had brought us full circle, back to main gateway into the cathedral grounds.
A walk along Gwynne Street and we were soon back on the banks of the Wye, five minutes from the car. It was time to call it a day, especially as a few spots of rain were falling, and so after a short drive we were back in the hotel, enjoying a drink in the bar and looking forward to a quiet night in.
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Have you ever visited the hills of Herefordshire? It’s a gorgeous part of the UK with so many cute little places to explore and discover. Do let me know what you think in the comments below! Love V x
