With part 1 and part 2 of our 3 counties tour complete, we were ready for the final leg, which would take us into the county of Worcestershire.
***
After a leisurely breakfast, we checked-out from our hotel, and set off in the direction of Worcester – our main destination of the day. Our journey took us up onto the Roman Road and from there we joined the A4103 which would be our route to Worcester (27 miles away). As we travelled along we came ever closer to the northern end of the Malverns, which gave a clear sign that the outskirts of Worcester were not far away. We entered the city via the Bromyard Road (A44) and after negotiating the inner ring road and crossing the Severn we found ourselves a good parking spot overlooking the reaches of the Severn and within easy walking distance of the cathedral and the city centre (Copenhagen Street).
The car park was ideally suited for exploring the city as at its entrance/exit we found St Andrews Garden of Remembrance, a very pleasant green space in which one finds Glover’s Needle (or St Andrew’s Spire), a prominent landmark that can be seen from miles around (all that remains of the Church of St Andrew that was demolished in the late 1940s).
Turning right along Deansway, it was just a 5-minute walk to the cathedral. At the approach to the cathedral was a thought-provoking statue dedicated to those who died in South Africa at the time of the Second Boer War (1899-1902). Architecturally, the cathedral, as it stands today, is a mix with styles ranging from Norman to Perpendicular Gothic. The exterior stonework is mainly Victorian as there was a major restoration from 1854-1875 but remains a remarkable sight. Inside the cathedral, the visitor can stand and admire the royal tombs of King John and Prince Arthur, explore the ancient crypt and marvel at the Victorian stained glass. Although hemmed in by ‘modern’ buildings the cathedral stands on one of the loveliest sites in England, majestically overlooking the town and the Severn just below.
Leaving this wonderful building, and reflecting on the treasures that were contained within, we made our way into the town to explore further its historical origins and to investigate what else modern Worcester had to offer. Our path took us along High Street where we were greeted by yet another statue to Elgar, another reminder of the area’s ‘favourite’ son and his importance not only as an outstanding composer but also as a common thread linking the three county towns of Gloucester, Hereford and Worcester – the Three Choirs Festival. (Famous for championing English music, especially that of Elgar, Vaughan Williams and Gustav Holst and supposedly the oldest music festival in the British Isles, the festival rotates each year around the three cathedral cities.)
The High Street is Worcester’s main shopping street, now pedestrianized, is undergoing modernisation and appears to have lost a little of its former charm, although the 18th century Guildhall, about halfway along, retains an air of historical importance and grandeur. Still the administrative heart of the city council, this Queen Anne style building exhibits a degree of ostentatiousness that easily attracts notice. Set back from the street it offers the viewer the chance to take in its rich façade, and the railings add to its architectural statement by adding gilded ornateness to the frontage. The entrance gates are also crowned with the city’s crest, mirroring the one above the main doorway. Either side of this doorway can be seen statues of two kings, Charles I and Charles II, one holding a church and one an orb. Above the doorway can be seen a head, pinned up by its ears supposedly representing the head of Oliver Cromwell. (the final battle of the English Civil War was fought in and around Worcester.)
The interior of the building matches the exterior with panelled walls and paintings, and a few more unusual items such as the 48 leather buckets found on the wall around the minstrel’s gallery. Well worth a look!
Also worth a look are the upper levels of the buildings along both the High Street and further down along The Cross and Foregate Street as although at ground level all appears to be modern shop frontages there is still plenty to see (architecturally) by simply raising one’s eyes. Noteworthy buildings include St Nicholas’ Church, The Hopmarket Hotel and The Star Hotel which today has been renamed as The Whitehouse Hotel.
Our next port of call was The Shambles another shopping street which would lead us at its far end into Pump Street and then right into Friar Street. Directly on the corner is The Eagle Vaults pub whose exterior is covered with fine Victorian tiling and a little further along, on the left is Greyfriars and further on still the Tudor House museum, this time on the right.
Retracing our steps we were soon back on the High Street and after a leisurely stroll, exploring one or two of the side streets, we made our way back to the carpark where we sat awhile people watching and taking in the view across the river to the cricket ground and Cripplegate Park, before heading out of the city in the direction of Evesham and our hotel for the night – The Wood Norton.
After checking-in, a refreshing cup of tea and a walk around the grounds, it was time to indulge ourselves with a very pleasant meal and a glass or two of wine. The view from the bar/restaurant across the parterre was picture-postcard with sweeping views across the Vale of Evesham. Sitting outside in the peace and quiet of the countryside, sipping our wine, we allowed ourselves time to reflect on all that we had seen and experienced on our journey through the 3 counties of Gloucestershire, Herefordshire and Worcestershire.
This really had been a trip which had provided us with scenes which had captured the very best of the some of the most beautiful English countryside you could wish to see. We had been accompanied by the music of those celebrated English composers, visited places steeped in history, places of significance, beloved by poets, authors and national heroes. The cities, towns and villages had all offered us a glimpse of the historical tapestry, woven by the peoples of times gone by, of their industry and their industries, their urban and rural heritages, the beautiful cathedrals, priories and churches built as centres to bring communities together and give thanks for all of Nature’s blessings.
***
I hope you enjoyed my tour of the 3 counties series and that maybe it has inspired you to take a similar trip yourself? Do let me know in the comments below! Love V x
