Like any good day in Europe, we started off the morning with a substantial buffet breakfast. Cheeses, meats, breads, even the cheeky chocolate biscuits, all provided essential fuel for the day ahead. Today was not an ordinary day though; we had set ourselves the task of exploring the beautiful city of Venice, only a short train ride away from Padua. After scoffing our faces, we left the hotel and headed towards the station.
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At 08:30, the temperature was already close to 30⁰C so we knew it would be another hot day and a tiring one in amongst the thousands of tourists who would also be ‘doing’ Venice. However, even this prelude was not enough to prepare us for the inferno that lay ahead in the hottest day of the year. And to top it off, Jack picked this day to forget his suncream… typical!
Having bought our tickets (€4.25 each way) we boarded the 09:21 regional train to Venezia Santa Lucia and were soon crossing the causeway, with our first views across the azure lagoon and the skyline of the almost mythical city. A few more minutes and we were pulling into the station itself and disembarking. From the station platform to the steps leading to the Grand Canal was just a short hop and then it was out into the hustle and bustle of the city. I distinctively remember the wall of heat that met us as we left the train doors; what had we signed up for.
Down the steps to the left was the Ponte degli Scalzi our route into the labyrinthine streets and alleyways of the inner city. Our target was to reach the Rialto bridge and then from there begin the tourist circuit around the old city. This was easier said than done as despite there being signage directing us in the right direction this would often ‘disappear’ at crucial junctions. Along the way we crossed several small bridges, passed several small churches and historic buildings, and walked along many, many passageways, some well-lit other seemingly in perpetual shade. The constant variation helped blur the sense of time and place and orientation was a problem, hinting at how easy it must have been in earlier times to get lost.
About an hour later we reached the Campo de la Becarie, home to the Mercato del Pesce or fish market and one of the Rialto markets. Before going any further, I wanted to just take in the stunning colours, sounds and smells of this busy part of the city. This was what Venice was all about I remember thinking. To top this off, across the Grand Canal we could see the beautiful architecture of the Ca’d’Oro (the golden house), the Palazzo Fontana Rezzonico and the Palazzo Michiel; if it weren’t so damn hot I could have stood there for quite a while.
We eventually exited the area via the Campo San Giacoma di Rialto and the Ruga dei Oresi, and in a matter of minutes reached the steps of the Rialto bridge. It was utter madness with hordes of tourists taking photos; of the Grand Canal, the buildings, the bridge itself, themselves and their friends. Like a true blogger however, I just had to take part in the fun!
Five minutes later, sanity returned (and the family were getting annoyed; sorry guys!) and we put the spell of the bridge behind us, seeking out a little shade and searching for the nearest Gelateria. It didn’t take long and we were soon busy sampling up some delicious Italian ice-cream – tiramisu and pistachio of course, what else?! The time was shortly before 11:00, and the thermometer was already pushing 35⁰C. However, we couldn’t admit defeat to the searing sun now, even with Jack’s moaning about sweating so much!
Next port of call was St Mark’s Square, a walk of about 500m, but with all of the heat, the constant streams of tourists going in both directions, not to mention the postmen, it seemed much longer. However, we made it and 10 minutes later we emerged from the relative shade of Mercerie Orologio into the brightness of Piazza San Marco with its world-famous buildings and skyline. Dominating the Square was St Mark’s Basilica with its great arches and marble decoration together and its campanile or bell-tower which stands apart. To the right, towards the Venetian lagoon, we could see the Doge’s Palace and the Piazetta San Marco with its two columns celebrating the city’s patron saints, Saint Mark and Saint Teodoro of Amasea, which have for centuries served as the official gateway to the city.
Turning around the architecture of this beautiful square held the gaze, in the northern corner you could see the Torre dell’ Orologio and to the left of this a long arcade fronting the buildings of the Procuratie Vecchie which historically had housed the high offices of state of the republic of Venice. Today the arcade houses shops and restaurants at ground level with offices above. The arcade continues at the western end of the square and is known as the Napoleonic wing, having been rebuilt by Napoleon in about 1810. The theme is continued along the southern side of the square with another arcade running up to the campanile and is known as the Procuratie Nuove. Again, hidden beneath the arches are an assortment of shops and also Caffé Florian which together with Café Procope in Paris claims to be the oldest coffee house in continuous operation within Europe, established in 1720. There was so much to take in, so many photo opportunities that our half-hour in the square really did not do it justice!
Leaving the Square behind, we were soon back ‘on the circuit’ and taking in the sights along the way. Some of the impressive architecture, such as The Church of San Moisè (Moses) with its elaborate Baroque façade, decorated with many sculptured set pieces demanded our attention, and served as a good spot to find shade in the alleyways. We also passed multiple little shops, allowing me to purchase my very own small token of the exciting trip.
Having negotiated the ‘busy’ end of the city, things began to quieten down with regards to people-traffic and we were finding the various squares getting larger and more open, offering space for cafés and restaurants to flourish and offer al-fresco dining. As we reached Campo Santo Stefano, it was time for a well deserved drink. The heat was almost unbearable, and we needed to rest and rehydrate.
We settled for Le Café on the corner of Calle dello Spezier and were soon seated and enjoying glasses of chilled water (temperature now 37⁰C). Our position allowed us a good view of the square and its associated buildings which again reinforced the impression of wealth, power and influence that was once Venice’s.
We were on the move again just after 12:30 heading towards the end of our circuit, the Rialto bridge. We crossed the Campo Santo Stefano to the Calle dei Frati, walked along the street as far as the Campo Sant’ Anzolo and then took the Calle de la Mandola as far as the Campo Manin and within a few minutes from there had completed our tour. Along the way, in the Calle de la Mandola, we had spotted our previously frequented Gelateria (Igloo), a marker to our first stay in Venice (2008), so that was our reward, yet another ice-cream (cheeky I know…).
Happily enjoying our ice-creams we retraced our steps back to the Campo Santo Stefano and from there made our way to Ponte dell Accademia at the western end of San Marco. Once over the bridge we turned to the right and wended our way the maze of narrow passageways that made up this less touristy part of the city. It was so nice finding the more secret and local part of Venice, and also allowed us to find the Trattoria Anzolo Raffaele (formerly Pane Vino e San Daniele). Needing to sit down, rest and rehydrate we decided to give this rustic hostelry our custom and settled down for a twenty- minute break. (We also needed the time to work out exactly where we were!!)
Before long, maps and phones in hand, we slowly but surely made our way northwards towards the station, along the Fondamente Pescheria, Corte Maggiore and Fondamente de l’Arzere as far as the Fondamente Procuratie, criss-crossing branches of the canal as we went. Compared to the hustle and bustle of San Marco the streets and quaysides along which we travelled were almost deserted. A sharp left at the end of the Fondamente Procuratie and a 5-minute walk beside the canal brought us to Ponte Papadopoli and access to the park and gardens of the same name, an oasis of green in the midst of, what is essentially, a cramped residential sprawl. It was good to find some shade and enjoy the comparative ‘cool’ provided by the surrounding vegetation. By now the sun was scorching down on us, and we had become fed-up of the never-ending heat.
All that was left was to retreat back to the station. This task was accomplished as quickly as possible, despite the heat, and it was with a feeling of ‘relief’ that we boarded the 15:42 train for Padua. ‘Relief’ to be sitting down, out of the blazing sunshine and resting our weary legs (yet again!) but feeling sad that our day was over. I think we had all been entranced by the mystique and unique atmosphere of Venice, and felt that with a little less heat, the day would have been even more enjoyable.
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I really hope you enjoyed reading about my day in Venice. If you have any questions or would like to know more about our trip around Austria and Italy, please do get in touch or leave a comment below!
Until next time, V x
