The city of Lübeck can be found in the state of Schleswig-Holstein in north-western Germany and it is, in my opinion, one of Germany’s most precious gems. Situated on the River Trave, Lübeck was once one of Germany, if not Europe’s most important port cities, and was considered to be Queen of the Hanseatic League. The city’s extensive and well-preserved brick Gothic architecture, along with its fascinating history, has earned it accreditation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
This beautiful city was one of the stops on our northern Europe Interrail trip last summer, both on the way north to Scandinavia, and also on our way back, heading south to Düsseldorf. Despite my extensive travels within Germany, Lübeck was a city which had somehow escaped my list, but during my visit certainly succeeded in stealing my heart.
I thought it was about time to share my experience of the city with you all – so here is it, part one, heading north to Lübeck.
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Despite arriving into a wet and rainy Lübeck, we were determined to get out and see the city on our first evening and after dropping off our things at our hotel – the Hotel Excelsior, a few minutes, by foot, from the station – and warming up with an obligatory cup of tea, we set out to explore the Old Town.
It was a short walk from the hotel to the Puppenbrücke where, in front of us, we could see the imposing Holstentor. After viewing this monument from every angle we crossed the River Trave and turned right onto An der Obertrave, the water-side promenade, and from there walked up the cobbled lanes to the Petrikirche (St. Peter’s).
This church was built during the Romanic period, extended during the Gothic period, destroyed in the Second World War and then rebuilt again. We had been told that the views from the top of the church tower over the city were well worth the climb but unfortunately the weather was such that we decided to leave it for another day.
Instead we made for the Cathedral.
After a quick tour around the interior of the Cathedral’s we re-emerged into daylight and strolled along the old winding lanes of Fegefeur and St Annenstrasse.
Our walk took us along Mühlenstrasse and Hüxstrasse as far as the Markt (town square) where we found both the Niederegger marzipan shop and the Ratskeller. We couldn’t visit Lübeck without sampling a little of this world famous marzipan and visiting the Ratskeller to imbibe a glass of two of the local brew. First stop was Niederegger where our eyes feasted upon the colours and our noses experienced the distinctive almond aromas. The artistry of the ‘confiserie’ chefs was truly remarkable; the many shapes ranged from all sorts of fruit and vegetables to the grander marzipan models of the town, its buildings and monuments.
Remarkable in the scope of these sculptured marzipan wonders, the shop provides the hordes of visitors with a unique memory of their trip to Lübeck. Resisting the urge to buy (and later consume) such sweet delicacies we crossed the street and into the Markt, where tucked away in the corner we found the Ratskeller (always a favourite with locals, offering regional dishes and local beers and wines).
Down a few steps and we were well and truly whisked back in history. The charming waitress bid us a friendly welcome and invited to sit down, rest our, by now, weary legs, and sample the local brew. In the vaulted cellar underneath the Town Hall (Rathaus) we found carved wooden booths along the one wall, intended one assumes for the more intimate dining experience, enormous barrels decorated with rustic symbolism, a selection of historical fact sheets and photos of Lübeck’s favourite sons as well as reminders of the city’s glorious past.
Having ‘wet our whistles’ we set off along Breitestrasse in the direction of St Jacob’s Church (the church of Seafarers) taking in the sights as we strolled along. St. Jacob’s (St. Jakobi) is the 3rd largest church in Germany and is described as a 3-naved Gothic brick hall church which survived the War and houses one of the best preserved examples of North German organs from the 16th century. Opposite the church were several medieval houses built to accommodate the clergy associated with the church. Dating back to 1601, these houses together with the church, capture a little of the past history of the so-called City of the 7 Spires.
From the church, it was but a short walk to the Burgtor, one of the original entrances to the city. We soon turned again back into the city with the intention of searching out the Greek restaurant that had been recommended to us by the receptionist at the hotel – Restaurant Papadopoulus in Pfaffenstrasse. Here we enjoyed a good Greek feast, with more than adequate portions, and of course a glass or two of wine.
Suitably contented, we made wandered down Beckergrube to the river Trave, crossed the bridge to the Musik- und Kongresshalle and then walked along the riverside back to the Holstentor, our ‘circular’ tour complete.
Have you ever been to Lubeck? What was your favourite thing about the city? Would you also class it as one of Germany’s gems? Do let me know in the comments below!
