Eating at St George and Dragon Wargrave

“Mellowed in the drowsy sunlight of a summer’s afternoon, Wargrave, nestling where the river bends, makes a sweet old picture as we pass it, and one that lingers long upon the retina of memory.” So says Jerome K Jerome in his novel Three Men in a Boat (1889) and in the next paragraph the ‘George and Dragon’ gets a mention.

A lot of water has gone under the bridge since then. However, in February 2019 I was invited to the relaunch of The St George & Dragon . This included a delicious 3 course meal, as well as three guests.

Eating at St George and Dragon, Wargrave

Nestled on the banks of the Thames in Wargrave, a stone’s throw from Henley-on-Thames and Reading, this picturesque restaurant/ pub is well-known in the local area as the perfect place for a quiet drink on the riverside during the summer months. I had heard about this reputation from family and friends, but would the food hold up to the pub’s local status? I was looking forward to finding out for myself…

On arrival, we were greeted by one of the attendant members of staff and shown to our table which allowed us a view across the courtyard towards the river, suitably illuminated in the early February evening.

My first impressions were certainly positive. The refurbishment had breathed new life into the restaurant space, with contemporary décor and lighting complementing the beamed ceilings, wood-burning fireplace and slightly rustic style of the earlier features. The subdued lighting gave the dusky pink walls a feeling of warmth and comfort and the artwork was fresh and modern. It certainly felt like a place where the modern and rustic worlds of dining had met and produced something quite special. So, as you may have already guessed, it’s safe to say I really liked the inside of the place!

Once seated, we were approached by our very friendly waitress for the evening and presented with the dinner menu. The well-crafted drinks menu offered plenty of choice and catered for all tastes, from aperitifs and cocktails (such as the suitably named Victoria’s Secret, made with passionfruit and fizz) to wines from across the world; zesty whites, light and refreshing rosés, full-bodied reds and Grande Marque champagnes. There was also a wide selection of craft beers, including alcohol-free and gluten-free options, and refreshing ciders. For the designated-drivers amongst us, there was also a wide-variety of choice available too!

With our drinks order placed we were able to turn our thoughts to the menu and our individual selections; not an easy process with so many mouth-watering options! 10/10 to the menu planners – not only have they developed the menus offering lots of choice but various dietary requirements have been taken into account, be they health-focused, vegetarian, vegan or children.

Without rushing us, our waitress checked that we had all the information we needed to place our orders, and I decided to begin with the Lobster and King Prawn Pot, which was a steal at only £7.95! Amongst our group, we also decided on ordering a serving of Salt and Szechuan Pepper Squid (coming in at £6.95) as well as the Deep-Fried Brie dish (£6.25).

Elegantly presented in mini Kilner-type jars the potted lobster and prawn, accompanied by toasted ciabatta, provided an excellent mix of flavours and textures, guaranteed to tease the palate. The balance of the dish was very good with the subtle flavours of the lobster and the more distinctive taste of the king prawn coming through the crème fraîche.

The squid was also excellently prepared and the aioli accompaniment added an extra layer of flavour. The portion size was particularly generous meaning all of us were able to tuck in.

The brie, served in a yummy breadcrumb coating and with a tangy tomato chutney, was wonderfully presented. I only managed a small taste of the cheese as one guest (Jack) was particularly greedy, but I was impressed at the small bite that I had! Definitely something I will be ordering for myself next time.

For a main course I opted for the Roasted Pork Belly & Seared Scallops (£18.50). The scallops were cooked to perfection, suitably seared on both sides but retaining a lovely flavour, full of natural sweetness. The roasted pork belly was succulent and the balance between meat and fat was just as it should be, with a delightful contrast between the delicate pork belly and the crunchy crackling spears. The accompaniments of butternut squash purée, green beans with toasted almonds and the robust red wine jus combined well to finish off the dish.

Between us, we also tried the Seared-Salmon Fillet, served on chorizo mash with tender stem broccoli and Bouillabaisse sauce (£15.50), which was really tasty with all the different flavours. The real showstopper was the Wagyu Burger (£16.95 + £2.50 for extras), served with extra bacon and halloumi. This foodie dream looked and tasted delicious, and to be frank I got some serious food-envy, as I’m sure anyone would.

As dessert approached, we opted to share several dishes so that we could get a full-range of what there was on offer. We first tried the Melting Chocolate and Peanut Bomb (£7.95). It arrived in a large chocolate dome, which the waiter promptly melted with some hot salted-caramel sauce. The dish was exceptionally sweet, but had a wide-array of flavours that shot out at you.

Next, we sampled the Sticky Toffee Pudding (£6.50), served with a rich vanilla ice-cream. This was truly delightful, and was really light and fluffy – exactly what you want.

The penultimate dessert was the New York Style Baked Vanilla Cheesecake (£6.50), served with a sharp forest-fruit compote and whipped cream. The contrasting sharpness of the compote, as well as the mellow vanilla, worked well, meaning that I may have had more than my fair share!

Like any true Brit, to end our meal we just had to have the British Cheese Board (£7.95). Presentation was once again at the heart of this selection of cheeses and savoury biscuits. From the lovely blue veining of the Yorkshire blue to the whiteness of the Camembert, or the mellow yellow of the Cheddar to the russet tines of the red Leicester, the platter appealed to the eye immediately. Accompanied by Fudge’s quartet of flavoursome biscuits, each a different shape and colour, the scene was set for the final act. What the dish had in presentation was equally matched in taste, where all the varying cheeses made for a stunning end to our meal out.

Judging the complete dining experience from arrival to departure, the evening was a total success and the chef and his staff, the manager and front of house waiters and waitresses certainly lived up to our high-expectations when we arrived in the evening. Overall, I can safely say I had a lovely evening, and send a massive thank you to the team for hosting us!

So, congratulations on the relaunch, top marks for an excellent evening and I look forward to returning soon to sample more of the menu. To paraphrase Jerome K Jerome, the visit to The St George & Dragon has provided me with ‘sweet old culinary picture and one that lingers long upon the palate of memory’.

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