Germany’s northern most state Schleswig-Holstein is known for its vast windblown landscape, shaggy coastline and position between the North and Baltic seas. I must admit that even I, as a bit of a Germany expert, was not aware of much else in the region. That was until my Interrail journey brought me to the pretty city of Lübeck, undoubtedly one of Germany’s, if not Europe’s, hidden treasures.
Lübeck is a city with a rich history, wonderful architecture and a strong maritime connection due to its Hanseatic past. For any classic literature fans out there the city also has strong associations with two of Germany’s most significant novelists, Günter Grass and Thomas Mann. Add to this its world-wide confectionary reputation (Lübecker Marzipan) and its famous son, Willy Brandt, one of the main architects of the Neue Ostpolitik (New Eastern Policy) in the ‘70s and later winner of the Nobel Peace Prize (1971) and it is perhaps no wonder then that UNESCO have declared it a World Heritage site.
With so much to brag about, it is a little surprising that the city hasn’t yet made it onto Europe’s tourist trail (although maybe that’s not such a bad thing). If you still need convincing then read on for my 5 reasons to visit Lübeck.
1. Gothic Gems and Hanseatic History
Surrounded on all sides by the Trave River and its connecting canals, Lübeck was once the Queen of the Hanseatic League, a powerful economic and defensive union in the Middle Ages, which dominated Baltic maritime trade. Nowadays this former wealth and power remains evident in many of the city’s impressive buildings. Of particular interest in the Altstadt is the Town Hall, which blends Gothic and Renaissance styles and is one of the oldest such buildings in Germany. (Quick tip: Head down into the Ratskeller to experience unique surroundings where you can enjoy a tipple..or two).
Also well worth visiting is the Marienkirche, which despite having suffered from severe damage during an Allied bombing raid in 1942, has since been restored and is a fine example of ecclesiastical Gothic architecture (don’t forget to visit, and contemplate the historical message of, the bells, in the south tower, which still poignantly lie where they fell during the raid). Enjoy as well strolling through the maze like network of pretty, narrow alleyways and courtyards that are a feature of the city, like Lüngreens Gang.
Don’t miss – the Holstentor, Seafarer’s Guild, Museum Harbour and the view from the viewing platform of St Peter’s Church.
2. Marzipan Madness
Marzipan is a bit like Marmite – you either love it or you hate it! – but whatever your preference you should still give Lübeck’s world famous sweet-stuff a try. According to local folklore, the city’s connection with marzipan dates back to a famine in the early 1600s, when bakers were forced to bake their loaves out of almond meal (a coarser version of almond flour).
These days, Lübecker-Marzipan stands under the protection of an E.U. directive as an indication of geographical origin, much like Scottish Angus Beef or Gouda from Holland. Anyone visiting the city should head to the biggest and best known producer Niederegger (behind the Town Hall) and explore their shop, full of hand-crafted marzipan fruits and figurines, including pigs and teddy-bears, displays such as the magnificent model of the Hanseatic town and sculptures, a café (on the 1st floor) and a museum (on the 2nd floor). All of these lead you on a voyage of discovery, titillate the tastebuds and challenge all who enter not to give into such sweet temptation
3. Let’s Go To The Beach
A short bus, train or ferry ride from the city centre will take you to directly to Lübeck’s attractive seaside resort Travemünde. Decked out with colourful Strandkörbe – wicker seats with sides and tops – the sandy stretch of beach offers a change of scenery from the city’s streets and a pleasant place to while away a sunny day. The town also plays host to the annual Travemünder Woche (a traditional sailing race week in July) and an annual Sand festival (Sand World).
With a little more time to spare you could also make your way over to the island Fehmarn, via the impressive suspension bridge. The serene island is a protected nature reserve as well as a popular holiday resort for Germans with extensive unspoiled beaches. Fehmarn was also the location of Jimi Hendrix’s final concert, at the Open Air Love & Peace Festival, on September 6, 1970.
4. Charming Christmas Markets
Forget the markets of Bavaria, when winter arrives it’s Lübeck that you should be heading to! The Altstadt is transformed into a twinkling mirage of Christmas lights and decorations and around every corner you will find festive cheer. Stop off at the markets around the “Markt”, “Koberg” and “Breite Straße” and inhale the warming aromas of mulled wine, grilled Bratwurst and sweet roasted almonds.
5. Award Winning Cuisine
Yes that’s right, a visit to Lübeck will also give you the opportunity to experience the delights of award winning cuisine. Michelin star restaurant “Wullenwever” housed in an elegant 16th century town-house in the Old Town offers refined dining in wonderful surroundings whilst “Schiffergesellschaft” (Seafarers’ Guild) not only offers high quality food but exudes the history relating to the city’s seafaring traditions. Add to these the “Ratskeller”, with its discreet booths and more traditional German menu and “Schlumachers” where you can sample the atmosphere of earlier times in this renovated merchant’s house as well as modern, tasty (‘and somewhat out of the ordinary’) European cuisine.
Whatever you are eating you may also want to sample a glass or two of Rotspon, a red wine (with history) from Lübeck. Rotspon today stands for high quality wine and, like the famous marzipan enjoys an excellent reputation.
So?! Have I convinced you to visit Lübeck? Do let me know in the comments below!
