USA 16 : 4 Days in Boston | Part 1

All too soon we had soon reached our final destination of our north-east coast tour and, whilst it was sad in a way, knowing that our adventure was coming to an end, we were really looking forward to exploring what the city of Boston had to offer.

We were lucky enough to be staying with an old school-friend of mine, in the gorgeous area of Back Bay, so were wonderfully located in terms of accessing the sights but also for experiencing Boston as if a local.

Our train ride up from Providence was no hassle at all – apart from being slightly confused by the processes aboard non-Amtrak trains. We had opted to jump aboard a commuter train up to the city and were pretty surprised to find that we were effectively locked into our coach with its designated conductor and fellow passengers between each station. Thankfully the trip was took us just over an hour and in no time at all we were pulling into South Station, Boston.

Our first evening in the city involved navigating the T, Boston’s underground system, and getting to our friend’s house where we enjoyed an evening of traditional American cuisine (The Cheesecake Factory courtesy of Door Dash – a bit like Deliveroo in the UK I’m told) and a good ol’ catch-up.

Day 1

It was clear when we woke up the following morning, we were not going to be doing too much sightseeing! It was absolutely pouring down with rain and neither Dom nor I were prepared for that in terms of clothes or shoes. Nevertheless we threw caution (and common sense) to the wind, left the flat, and made our way along the streets of Back Bay, passing plenty of Frat houses (evident not only by the Greek letters carved into the pavement but also by the number of beer bottles displayed in the various building’s windows) as we went.

Beacon Street took us as far as the Boston Public Garden but as the rain was still hammering down, we veered left into the historic Beacon Hill neighbourhood looking for the first cosy cafe that came into view.

We soon spotted Pete’s where we enjoyed a warming cup of coffee before once again getting back en route (Did we have one?). However, that didn’t last long as we couldn’t resist the lure of Sweet Bakery and its cupcakes so we popped in. If you can’t gorge on cupcakes on holiday, when can you?

After that bit of serious ‘pigging’, we walked off the calories by investigating the streets of Beacon Hill, one of America’s most historic neighbourhoods, characterised by its Federal, Greek Revival, and Victorian architecture, elegant buildings, including The Massachusetts State House, with its magnificent gilded dome. The area is also graced by charming brick and cobblestoned streets adorned with period lampposts, whose glimmering light just adds to the atmosphere. It may have been a wet and dreary day but I like to think that added an extra ingredient to the area’s charm.

Whilst we were admiring and photographing some of the fancy door knockers in the swanky Louisburg Square (America’s most expensive address), a nice gentleman approached us informing us that the door with the shiny (Boston-) lobster shaped knocker was once home to the author William Dean Howells and on that the house on the opposite side of the Square, where the US flag was flying, was the home of John Kerry, United States Secretary of State. Travel and education go hand in hand, don’t you agree?

Leaving this historic neighbourhood behind us, we headed for the city-centre. Our route took us along the northern edge of the Common and past the Massachusetts State House.

We then made for Downtown Crossing, where an inviting selection of shops such as Macy’s, TJMaxx and the newly opened Primark awaited our perusal.

Thankfully, and at long last, the rain eased off – although a bit late in the day as it was already 5pm! – so we slowly started to make our way back towards our base near to Kenmore. We skirted Chinatown and the Theatre District, before cutting through the Public Gardens, before making our way up Newbury Street – a lovely avenue of upmarket shops and restaurants.

Of course, it was time for a little more retail therapy and so we couldn’t resist popping into one or two shops for a browse – my boyfriend was specifically keen to visit Jack Will’s US Flagship store. In addition we squeezed in one last cafe stop of the day in the Thinking Cup.

Day 2

Thankfully the weather turned out a little better on our second day and we took the opportunity to venture further afield, across the Charles River to Cambridge.

Making our way passed MIT and up towards Harvard, I found it quite surprising that somewhere literally just across the water from Boston could have such a different vibe.

We eventually made it to the Harvard Campus and spent some time wandering around its quad and between its various faculty buildings.

After a good walk around, and before we took the T back to Boston, we stopped by LA Burdick, a popular hot chocolate cafe and chocolatier establishment.

Once we were back in Boston, we thought it was about time to visit the Boston Tea Party Ship. I mean we could hardly visit one of America’s most historic cities and not indulge in some history.

Voted the best family attraction in Boston, the museum provides a modern, multi-sensory experience for the visitor. Live actors recreate this piece of American history whist, high-tech, interactive exhibits and authentically restored tea ships, the Eleanor and the Beaver, help deliver the story of that that fateful night of December 16, 1773. For those of you who might not know The Boston Tea Party was the beginning a rebellion by the American colonists, forced on them by the injustices of the tax system that used the colonists’ tax revenues to repay British war debts. As a calculated response tea, a prized commodity, was thrown overboard from the three ships in Boston harbour. Two years later, war broke out, with the result that on 4^th July 1776, America, specifically the Thirteen Colonies, formally declared its independence from Great Britain

Whilst we weren’t prepared to pay the $30 entrance fee to the museum, we did head up to Abigail’s Tea Room – a cosy and comfortable room overlooking the waterfront and harbour, where we were welcomed and served by tea ladies equipped with suitable period attire. Quite an experience!

Not only did this allow us to quench our thirst with a nice cuppa but it also meant that we dodged the torrential rain shower – another example of a perfectly timed pit stop!

Once the rain had died down, we made our way along the waterfront towards the Aquarium, and from there we then headed to Quincy Market and Faneuil Hall. Although now incorporated into the new (1976) Faneuil Hall Marketplace, Quincy Market continues to be a source of food for Bostonians.

Although its character has changed, from providing grocery and other foodstuffs to in general food outlets, food-stall, fast-food, and restaurants, it remains it remains a popular and busy meeting place for locals. The market is two-stories tall, rectangular in shape with a grand dome at its centre. The space beneath the Dome now serves as the seating area for the food court as is suitably adorned with various sign boards relating to businesses and merchants from previous eras. Worth a visit? Yes!

After a short while ogling the indoor market’s food stalls we met up with our friend who led the way to a new and popular Bostonian hangout – the Public Market. This new (2015) indoor market specializes in ‘locally sourced groceries and specialty agricultural products’ (produce sold must be produced or originate in New England). We couldn’t resist stopping for a highly recommended Taza Hot Chocolate and of course a helping of homemade donuts. I opted for some Cider Farm mini donuts whilst my boyfriend Dom went all out with a maple and bacon donut – he is adamant that it was delicious!

Just a short walk from the Public Market we found ourselves in North End – Boston’s ‘Little Italy’. North End is the city’s oldest residential community and people have lived in the neighbourhood since the 1630s. Less than a third of a square mile in area, it is incredibly walkable, and has a whole host of tourist attractions and popular establishments (particularly eateries) to offers its visitors.

Our next stop, after a short ride on the T, was the Public Library at Bolyston. The Library was founded in 1848 and, as well as serving the people of Boston, it also acts as the Library for the Commonwealth (of Massachusetts). It is truly a magnificent building, especially once you get inside and you are met with the grand marble stair case and ornate decor. It’s mindboggling to think that within the building are approximately 23 million items encompassing all formats including books, maps, prints and CDs etc.

We spent some time (quietly) wandering around the Library taking in all of the surroundings and peeking into the gorgeous reading room. Named after its first great benefactor Joshua Bates, Bates Hall is as you might imagine a vast space with a coffered ceiling, large research desks decorated and illuminated by a profusion of green lampshades. The atmosphere is hushed! If only I had had access to a library like that when I was writing my university dissertation!

After a few minutes of quiet reflection we then popped out into the beautiful courtyard, feeling almost transported to Italy, with its distinct architecture. How could one not be inspired in such surroundings?

To end our afternoon, we strolled down Bolyston as far as the Hynnes Convention centre and the Prudential Centre – home to over 75 speciality retailers, including upmarket stores such as Lacoste and Saks Fifth Avenue. We couldn’t resist a peek in at least some of the American stores – in particular Kate Spade and Vineyard Vines.

In the evening we headed out for dinner at a lovely restaurant – Papa Razzi on Newbury Street – our meal was delicious and I would definitely recommend a visit should you find yourself in Boston!

To finish off the night, we made our way to the Cinema on Tremont Street. I must admit I was quite looking forward to my first experience of the ‘movies’ at a cinema in America – don’t ask me why. We had a fab evening laughing away, watching My Big Far Greek Wedding 2 before catching the T back to the apartment and crawling into bed ready for a good night’s sleep before we embarked on another day of exploration!