Just when I thought my year of travelling was over, I was surprised by the news that my Mum and I would be heading off for one last trip of the year – to enjoy the Christmas Markets and to reunite with my ex-university-flatmate. Where better to head for a long wintery weekend than to the beautiful city of Vienna.
If that weren’t enough, upon checking in online the night before our travels began, it turned out that we would be enjoying the trip in the comfort of Business Class. What a treat!
Whilst Vienna is a wonderful destination whatever the season, I had been informed that Christmas-time in the city was particularly special. I was eager to see this for myself and discover what a wintery weekend in Vienna would have instore for us!
Without further ado, grab a hot cup of tea, snuggle under your warm winter blanket and join me as I relive part one of my 3 days in Vienna.
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3 Days in Vienna – Part One
After an evening flight from Heathrow we eventually arrived and hopped aboard the train that would take us into the city. It was not long before we had checked into our hotel – The Intercontinental – and were ready to get some rest, refuelling our batteries for the day of exploring that lay ahead of us.
The following morning we were up bright and early and were greeted by a beautiful view out of our window on the 11th floor – not bad, hey?!
After enjoying a leisurely breakfast at The Parlor and meeting up with my lovely friend, (and local expert), Fiona in the hotel lobby, we set off into town, our first stop being the magnificent Stephansdom. There is something about the cathedral that impresses me each and every time I’m in the city – perhaps the contrast between its old architecture and the new modern buildings lining the square, or the elegant steeple that shoots up into the sky or the shining multi-coloured tiles that adorn its roof. Who knows, but it sure is beautiful!
Following a short but sweet peek inside (Sunday mass was about to begin) we set off for a stroll around some of the city’s picturesque side streets. I love the sense that one minute you can feel so small stood upon Stephansplatz overlooked by the cathedral and the next you can be lost within the maze of winding streets and alleyways that lead off from the central point.
We then looped back around and headed in the direction of Graben, one of the city’s most famous streets. Decked out with huge sparkling chandeliers and lined with expensive shops, it is hard to believe this elegant street was simply once a ditch around the old Roman settlement.
At the top of Graben, Fiona pointed out the luxury food store Julius Meinl practically bursting with different foods and specialities from all over the world, before leading us down Vienna’s most luxurious (and expensive) street, Kohlmarkt (coal market). The shopping promenade is home to traditional Viennese jewellers such as Wagner, Bucherer and Schullin, as well as global names such as Burberry, Chanel and Ferragamo, all housed in an eclectic array of historical buildings.
Near the end of Kohlmarkt is chocolate lover’s paradise, Demel, known to be one of, if not the best chocolate and cake shops in Vienna. Demel’s window displays are also a popular attraction, with characters made almost entirely out of sugar – this year they were featuring Saint Nicholas and his devilish ‘friend’ Krampus, as well as a selection of snow globes and figurines.
Resisting the sugary goodness (such a feat!), we continued onwards to admire the lavish Hofburg, Vienna’s former imperial palace. Built in pearly white stone and topped with a turquoise-turned copper dome, it really is quite a sight. Plus, with the seasonal Christmas markets and stream of old-fashioned horse drawn carriages passing by, it was even more atmospheric.
Fiona then led us up Herrengasse, passing by the elegant Viennese institution that is Café Central. This exquisitely decorated café is over one hundred and thirty years old and back in the day was a central meeting point for many of the thinkers academics and literati from the world of the arts, literature and science including the likes of Freud, Altenberg and Trotzki. It’s definitely been placed at the top of my list for my next visit to Vienna! Cutting sideways off Herrengasse we made our way along a street that bordered the Palais Niederösterreich, before our pathway opened up into a bright square centred around the Wiener Minoritenkirche.
Just a few steps onwards we emerged onto the busy Ringstrasse with the Burgtheater to our side and the neo-Gothic Rathaus (City Hall) in front, its façade and forecourt decked out with all sorts of festive embellishments. From giant advent candles, huge lights hanging in the air above us, illuminated decorations hanging amongst the bare branches of trees and lots and lots of market stalls – the square was certainly looking Christmassy!
I honestly didn’t know where to start; tempting stands were offering sugary confections, numerous types of sausage, all sorts of tempting nibbles and of course steaming bowls of hot punch or mulled wine; whilst other stalls were overflowing with glass decorations, golden baubles, carved wooden tree decorations, toys and other ideas for gifts to fill those Christmas stockings. We meandered along, twisting this way and that as we made our way through the stall-lined walkways, stopping to admire the glistening goodies as we went. We also popped into the Rathaus itself which hosted a number of workshops for kids, allowing them to make things such as tea lights, which was I found very sweet indeed.
Midday had been and gone and even after a hefty breakfast my stomach was starting to rumble. We left the festivities of the Christmas Market behind us and made our way back into town for a quick lunch at Vapiano – I still have no idea why they haven’t taken the UK by storm yet, but I remain hopeful!
With contented stomachs and defrosted hands our afternoon programme went on and soon we were hopping aboard the tram to Schloss Belvedere. It was only 3pm but the sun was starting to dip below the skyline and the Christmas Market lights were beginning to twinkle, but that didn’t stop me taking a few photos in the splendid baroque setting of the Schloss and its surroundings.
After a good wander around, we decided we hadn’t quite had enough of imperial palaces for the day, so, we then made the journey across the city to the magnificent Schloss Schönbrunn, which was just starting to be lit up as the sun set and the sky slowly descended into darkness.
I hadn’t been to Schloss Schönbrunn since I was a little girl – my memories consist of heading up to the Glorietta, hopping from one patch of shade to another, hiding from the scorching rays of sunshine. I ensure you this trip was very different! With golden lights, the soft sounds of carol singing, sweet aromas of spiced drinks and a giant Christmas tree, the so-called Culture and Christmas Market made Schönbrunn look even more beautiful, and I was far from feeling hot!
Browsing through the stalls my eyes feasted upon a vast selection of traditional arts and crafts, as well as festive food, from all over Austria. With all this food on offer and jollity going on all around me, it was time to stop and partake of a drink of my own – a warming hot chocolate!
Our first day in the city had passed far too quickly and our evening was slowly coming to an end and so after an hour or two at the Market, we travelled back into the city and the comforts of our room overlooking the Stadtpark. I spent some time watching the mesmerising streams of traffic flowing along the roads visible from the hotel and then, after one final cup of tea headed to bed, ready for another day.
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Part 2 of my weekend in Vienna coming soon!
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1 comment
I’ve just combed this post and made notes for my itinerary. My spontaneous Vienna trip tomorrow is based on your adventure! Thanks so much for sharing, really useful 🙂